I stood along the water’s edge at the port, the Congolese military armed and on guard close behind me, protecting what is a close access point from Rwanda into the Congo. Civilians were also armed and on guard while they readied their boats for the night shift on Lake Kivu. I am now in Goma.
Just a week ago from the recent interview, attackers from Rwanda had come all the way up onto shore in Goma, raiding fishing boats, looting what was on board and onshore, other times taking lives. This has been the case for over 20 years, 20 years of frequent attacks and disruption.
What was a seemingly peaceful lake vista now wore an overtone of caution and belligerence with the imminence of nightfall.
While the fishermen prepared their boats, I got myself mentally and physically ready to enter the waters of Lake Kivu with them.